Ouzo's

Ouzo's is the old/new name of a Greek restaurant not far from us.  It was Ouzo's on Miami Beach, then came to 78th Street off Biscayne and became Anise Taverna, then was briefly RiverShack, and is now Ouzo's again.  The proprietress is Liza Meli.

Anise Taverna was a wonderful Greek restaurant.  It was typical in some ways, but unique in others.  The food was always first rate, the setting was charming, and the service was most welcoming.  The food was more or less standard Greek, but with homey and unusual touches.  The reason was Liza's attachment to her mother, who is Greek and a great cook.  So Liza provided the recipes, compliments of her mother, and a succession of chefs cooked them.  As far as I'm concerned, all the chefs did a good or great job.  Margaret was the best, and Amy was a close second.  The portions were generous, and there were often extras: little things that are called amuse bouches in another setting.  For a long time, it was magnificent olives for the table.  Now, it's whatever Liza, or the waitstaff, feel like providing.  And if you're a regular, or they just like you, it's even more.  It doesn't take long before you feel a little guilty about it, as if the price you pay is not enough to compensate for the welcome you get.

There always was, and still is, the standard Greek menu.  Whatever I ever had was excellent.  The prices, without the extras, were, and still are, moderate.  And the wine list is very satisfying.  Some of it is wine you never heard of, but they get deals from vintners they know, or the distributors who work with those vintners, and you wind up with exceptionally good wine for a price lower than you would think for wine that good.

For a while, in the last several months of Anise Taverna, there was a new program.  It was called Mediterranean Mondays.  Every week, Liza chose a Mediterranean port city, researched the local food, and made up a menu.  She and partner Gigi provided a complete dinner, all you could eat, and all the wine you could drink, local to the port country, for $55 per person.  These were spectacular and memorable meals.  The program eventually went away, for a number of reasons to which I am not privy.  Then, Anise Taverna ended.

I'm leaving out RiverShack.  It was briefly, is no more, and isn't worth going into.

So now that Liza is on her own, she's gone back to her original name and concept.  Ouzo's.  She was away for the summer, when RiverShack was gasping, and returned to supervise the RiverShack-to-Ouzo's transformation.  Part of her travels took her to her mother, and more recipes.  The food is as good as ever.  And the prices are still fair or better.  In addition to the regular menu, Liza has started a new dining program.  She calls it Greek family-style Sundays, which is one of the menu choices on Sunday.  (Or, if you like, you can order off the regular menu.)  The price for the family-style dinner is now $35, for all you can eat, and all you can drink.  Liza tends to serve the same menu every Sunday.   It is ample in scope and courses, delicious, and more than you can eat.  It's more than I can eat, so I know it's more than you can eat.  The wine is now "house wine," but it's perfectly good.

Ouzo's is closed Tuesday, and they only serve dinner.  They also sometimes feature live music.  And for what it's worth, if you look at their website, and you think Liza is a remarkable dish herself, don't be fooled.  She's even better looking in person.  How the world's most beautiful couple becomes one of the world's most beautiful women, and doesn't lose anything in the transition, is beyond me.